Speakers: types, sensitivity, impedance
Choosing a transducer that matches your room and amplifier
The speaker converts an electrical signal into acoustic pressure inside your room, and it is the component that interacts most violently with your walls: the same pair can sound radically different from one room to the next. Before comparing brands, understand three numbers — enclosure type, sensitivity and impedance — then check compatibility with your amplifier and the space you actually have.
Sealed, ported, transmission line
A sealed box extends less deeply for a given volume but rolls off gently (12 dB/octave) with a dry, small-room-friendly bass. A ported design typically buys 5 to 10 Hz of extension and 3 dB of bass efficiency, at the cost of a steeper 24 dB/octave slope and a port resonance that can excite room modes.
Practical rule: below 20 m², a sealed box or a ported design tuned high (port around 45-55 Hz) avoids bloated bass. Above 30 m², a low-tuned port becomes genuinely useful or the bass sounds thin.
Transmission lines and horns work, but demand serious placement freedom: pick them only if you are willing to optimise the room around them.
Sensitivity is your amplifier budget
Sensitivity (dB/2.83 V/1 m) tells you the level produced for a given voltage. Every 3 dB lost doubles the power needed for the same level, so an 85 dB speaker asks roughly four times the power of a 91 dB one.
Useful figure: for 95 dB peaks at 3 m, an 88 dB speaker wants about 50 to 100 W per channel with headroom to spare. Below 86 dB, look for current delivery rather than paper watts.
Beware sensitivity quoted at 1 W/1 m into 4 ohms: it looks 3 dB better than the same speaker measured at 2.83 V.
Impedance and the real load curve
Nominal impedance (4, 6 or 8 ohms) says little about difficulty. What matters is the minimum impedance, the frequency where it happens, and the electrical phase. A 3 ohm dip around 100 Hz hammers the amplifier's power supply.
Tube amps and low-current class A or D designs prefer a load staying above 6 ohms. An amplifier that nearly doubles its power from 8 to 4 ohms has the current reserve demanding loads require.
An amp running unusually hot, tripping protection, or hardening the upper midrange at volume almost always signals a load mismatch, not a speaker fault.
Sizing for the room
Rule of thumb: a single 17-18 cm woofer per side covers up to 20-22 m². Between 22 and 35 m², aim for twin 16-17 cm woofers or one 20-22 cm. Beyond that, real 35 Hz capability without compression becomes legitimate.
A speaker too large for the room cannot be fixed downstream: modes excite the bass and the only cure is distance from the walls, often impossible. A well-placed bookshelf on a rigid stand routinely beats a floorstander jammed into a corner.
The stand is part of the speaker: enough mass, decoupling from the floor, and the tweeter at seated ear height (85-100 cm) are non-negotiable for a bookshelf.
Break-in, matching, checks
Allow 30 to 60 hours for new suspensions to settle: bass loosens and the upper midrange relaxes. Do not pass final judgement on the first evening.
Verify absolute phase on both speakers: one inverted channel literally hollows out the stereo centre. A mono signal must produce a perfectly centred, compact voice.
Torque the binding posts, re-check driver screws after a few weeks, and remove the grilles for critical listening — they usually cost 1 to 2 dB in the treble.
Common mistakes
- Chasing bass extension before checking how much space you have behind the speakers.
- Pairing a low-sensitivity, unstable-impedance speaker with a current-starved amplifier.
- Placing a bookshelf on furniture: the radiating surface colours the midrange and smears imaging.
- Judging new speakers before break-in, or with the grilles on.
Checklist
- Sensitivity and minimum impedance noted, amplifier power consistent.
- Room volume matched to the enclosure type.
- Tweeter at ear height in the seated position.
- Absolute phase verified on both channels.
- Binding posts torqued, stands or spikes stable.
